London Embroidery School

Central London Embroidery School

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Pro Tips: Tucking under Freestanding Embroideries (Finishing)

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Picture the scene, you have learnt a new embroidery skill on the frame, well done! And you’ve got all these ideas about where you want to put that embroidery, how you want to use it but it’s on a base fabric which is really a part of what you had envisoned. If you cut it out, the fabric will fray and all fall apart, but if you dont cut it away then it’s going to look a bit scruffy at best.

The alternative is to tuck the excess base fabric under the embroidery so that it gets finished and hidden, so that your pieces looks like it was freestanding all along!

Click the picture above to see the video in full.

First cut yourself a small boarder around the embroidery in the shape you would like the piece to be when finished, just a bit bigger. How large this boarder is will depend on your base fabric, if it is likely to fray, be a bit more generous, but about 3mm is a good standard. You may want to mark this first on the back with a pencil as a guide, or you can eyeball it if you are feeling lucky.

Once cut, turn you embroidery over to the back side, thread up a needle with a matching coloured thread, single thread, knot in the end (follow the link to our pro tips blog on knots to see how to do a knot like a pro).

Anchor you thread with a few small stitches on top of one another somewhere inconspicuous, then start to fold in the boarder of base fabric and secure with a stitch.

You should be catching the back of the embroidery and then the folded in edge with a small stitch, then move along a few millimeters, fold the boarder in again and stitch.

Every few stitches, you will need to create a little tuck to gather the excess fabric  as the boarder is bigger than the finished embroidery, fold it neatly and stitch it down (may require a few stitches), then move on like normal

Repeat to the end and knot off your thread.

You now have a very neat freestanding embroidery which you can apply to whatever your heart desires.

Valentino Rose used as an example for tucking under

 

Pro Tips: Framing up a Round Frame

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Framing up a frame might seem like one of the most basic things you could possibly do in embroidery, and in truth, it is. But here are a few little tips that might help to bring your embroidery up a knotch just in the preparation of your stitching:

1. Ironing your Fabric

For embroidery, you want a nice, flat, even surface on which to embroider as this will help to create consistent tension. Any creases in the fabric represent an area of fabric that has already been distorted before you begin. A crease will have lesser tension than the rest of the fabric and therefore has the potential to become a gather or pucker whilst you work therefore if you give it an iron before you begin you should be able to illiminate this risk. (Always test your fabric somewhere inconspicuous first before ironing all over and follow the ironing instructions for that fabric if provided)

2. Wrapping your Frame

Within the frame, whilst you work, you put pressure on the fabric which can change the tension. Wrapping your frame in calico or a similar fabric provides a bit more of a grippy surface for the fabric to pull against and maintain your tension (see our previous blog on this for more details).  You may also find for some fabrics that the calico provides the extra bonus of a little padding which can decrease your chances of having frame marks on your fabric when you finish.

3. Pressing on the Frame

You’ve ironed your fabric beautifully flat, and your frame is wrapped to perfection. All that is left is to put the fabric in the hoop, how you do that can also makes a difference, particulally if you have a seat or clamp frame. Put the top side of your hoop face down on a table, lie the fabric centrally over the hoop then place the inside of the frame within in. You are looking for the part of the outer hoop that has the bolt in it to be smoothly within the hoop first. This is because it is the area of highest pressure due to the bolt and the ends of the hoop being there so if this goes in first, the pressure created when we push the frame into place is displaced equally around the hole curve of the hoop rather than condensed onto these corners.

4. Respect your Frame

This last one is more of a bug bear for us, but getting into this good habit will increase the lifespan of your frame. Anytime you want to look at the underside of your embroidery, loosen the screw that attached the frame to the stick so that it can move easily. When this screw is tight, is it what is holding your frame at your desired angle to work on, so when you force it up and down, inevitabley over time the screw will loosen and no longer be able to support the weight of the frame at your prefered angle (plus it makes a horrible screech). Loosening it will give it a much better chance of serving you long and well.

Other blogs you might find useful on the subject are ‘How to pick your embroidery frame‘ and ‘Stitching with both hands‘ for a little further reading.

 

Hope you found this helpful!

Pro Tips: How to pick your Embroidery Frame

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This week, we have frames on our mind. An essential for creating your best embroidery, the humble frame is often overlooked. We now have a range of 11 frame options for your to chose from so here is a little guide from us so you can make the best choice for you:

  • 10” Table Clamp Frame: As you will have seen in our classes, these frames allow you to work with both hands simultaneously which is essential for some techniques such as tambour. The Table clamp frames attached to your table, so you will need to have a table with a square edge of less than 3.5cm for the clamp to be able to attach properly. You can adjust the tilt of the hoop as well as the height with the adjusters.

 

  • 10” Seat Frame: Similar arrangement to the Table Clamp Frame, but a good option if you dont have a table to hand as you sit on the base to stablise it instead. You can adjust the tilt of the hoop as well as the height with the adjusters..

 

  • 8” Hoop & Stalk (NEW) : The 10” comes as standard  as described above but we now offer  a smaller sized hoop of 8” which can be interchanged with your base (seat or clamp) for the best combination for your project and comfort. Choosing the smallest frame for the job at hand will give you the best tension

 

  • 6” Hoop and Stalk (NEW): Smaller still, the 6” hoop which can be interchanged with your base (seat or clamp) for the best combination for your project and comfort. Choosing the smallest frame for the job at hand will give you the best tension

 

  • Slate Frame: (by Enquiry only) Slate frames have stood the test of time for embroiderers throughout history, and continue to be a wonderful tool for any stitcher. Ideal for larger projects and fantastic for tambour, goldwork, monogramming silk shading to name a few.The frames are made out of beech wood, a strong and sturdy wood ensuring the tension is perfect without putting a strain on the frame. Each frame comes with webbing and pins.

For more info check out the other pro tips blogs on frames for how to wrap your frame and how to best use the embroidery frames for display purposes, complete with a video guides .

Pro Tips: Presenting your Embroidery in a Frame

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Presenting your embroidery nicely can often be a bit tricky but with it being so beautiful, its a shame not to display it.If you have been into have a class with us recently you will have seen our range of classes displayed with the samples from them in our new display frames. The come in 3, 5 and 8 inch, sold as a set or individually so here is a little how to frame up in that style.

 

The frames have an inner hard plastic ring and an outer flexible plastic ring that ‘pops’ into place and holds your embroidery taught.

  1. Place your ironed embroidery over the hard ring.
  2. Starting from the bottom, ease the flexible ring over the top of the hard ring, holding the embroidery steady as you go.
  3. Turn over your frame and cut away any excess fabric so you are left with about 1cm excess
  4. Using a needle and thread with a double thread and knot at the end, stitch a generous running stitch around the edge, pulling tight as you go
  5. When you come to the make sure the stitching is pulled tight so that the excess gathers neatly and knot off again
  6. Get a nice hook on the wall because this beauty is ready for its close up.

Pro Tips: Curved Scissors

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We have touched on this one before, but in the studio we just cant get enough of these curved scissors. Although their curvy blades may look a bit tricky, they make cutting away fabrics close to each other very easy. They are designed to be used for applique specifically so when you have stitched down your two fabrics together and want to cut away the excess from the fabric being applied, the curve of the blades allows them to lay flat between layers without your hand having to be rubbing on or over pressuring the work you are doing in order to cut away.

Curved Scissors

£16.50

We have particually found this useful in the machine embroidery department as we spend a lot of time cutting away the excess backing once we are finished with a stitch out and for the same reasons, it makes this process very easy as shown.

Pro Tips: Pounce Rubbing

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One of the big questions when it comes to stepping up from prepared embroidery kits to your own designs is how to transfer the design onto your fabric effectively. There are lots of items out there to try for various approaches which have their pros and cons, however our prefered method is the old school way; Prick and Pounce.

With price and pounce you use a needle to create a series of holes in your design on tracing paper which mark the areas you wish to see and then pass a fine powder (called pounce) through the holes to mark your design (Please see previous post for more details about pricking specifically).

Once you have pricked your design, you to pass the pounce over the design using some rolled up felt, or a chalk ball so that the pounce falls through the channels you have created. When passing the pounce, you should be looking to stroke evenly across the design in one direction to encourage the pounce to fall though the same way across the design to be accurate.

When you have covered the whole design, remove tracing paper and you should be able to see your design.  Then when you are happy with your pounced version, very carefully, draw over the pounce dots to join up the lines in an appropriate medium (eg pencil for light fabrics, gel pen for dark coloured fabrics).

If you find you have made a mistake at the pouncing stage, eg. you’ve missed a section or that the draft moved mid pouncing, you can simply shake the pounce out of the fabric with a few good taps and begin again.